Climbing on the crown

It was a very warm day in Greece, and the temperature was near 40 degrees as we were driving to the base of Mount Olympus. Normal people would only rest in the shade or swim in the sea in these high temperatures. As we felt different from the people who were resting in comfort, we packed our 15 kg backpacks and started our ascent towards the mountain hut of Christos Kakkalos, located at almost 2600 masl.

Olympus is a very attractive mountain for hikers, climbers, and nature lovers because it contains a huge diversity of natural features, from waterfalls, cold canyons, and steep woods to the rocky parts of the mountain, which are more concentrated in the upper parts of the massif. I have been to Mount Olympus more than ten times, and I have never gotten bored by this impressive nature. I enjoy it when I see the sea from the summits and run in the woods of the mountains. This time, I partnered with my climbing friend Radovan - an amazing climber from Struga - to climb Stefani's east face. It was the first time for both of us to enter the beautiful and unique shape of Stefani's rock face. Stefani, in Greek, means a Crown. When you see its east face, you can imagine the crown of all the queens in history. Climbing on the crown will be another great adventure.

As we left our car, we started to work on our plan, which was to get to the refugee of Kakkalos. It was one of the hardest hikes, with all of that load at almost 40 degrees. Because of the conditions, we chose the route from Gortisa, which is the route that people use in winter. We chose this route because it goes via the plain of the Muses to the mountain huts of Agapitos and Kakkalos and through the summit of Skoutra (2485 masl). After all, half of the route is in the woods and gives you some shade. It was hard to walk in that sun, but in about 3.40 hours, we made it to the refugee of Kakkalos. We rested, ate food, and listened to Alex playing old Greek songs on his guitar.

We were very lucky to meet Alex from Litochoro, a mountain guide, runner, and climber. He showed us Stefani's EF, which included most of the routes, and we had a great conversation about our experiences and adventures in the mountains. He is planning to explore Georgia for ski touring, and I was happy to hear his plan since I was in Georgia and discovered all that hidden treasure. We read some old books, looked at some pictures in the hut, as I always do, and watched the sun leave its mark on the sky as it went down on the horizon.

The time for sleep had arrived; the moon was full, and the tents around the refugees were placed, except ours. We were sleeping only in our sleeping bags, below the open sky, and we enjoyed the wind for the entire night, which made us sleep very little. Still, we were happy to be in that place. After the beautiful sunrise, we had our breakfast and packed our gear for climbing. We planned to climb three routes on Stefani EF: Ahladi, Comici and Boteli. The difficulty of the routes was from 4+ to 7- according to UIAA. We start our climbing day with the historically first route on the face, Comici-Esher. If you are on this rock face for the first time, Comisi can be quite hard to find, especially if you are not prepared with information, pictures, and descriptions. We were prepared with everything, but we still missed the first anchor and entered a different, much harder route, according to Radovan. He did an abseil, and on the second try, we found the way and began to climb the route.

The route was technically not hard, but the loosing rocks were so hard to avoid, and we had several falling rocks around us, making us move very carefully. The route is five pitches long, and it has bolted anchors, but no more than that. We put some of our gear along the way just in case, but we were very safe in our climbing, and we did it in 1.50 hours. The route exits on the very summit of Stefani, from where the whole mountain of Olympus is before you, including the neighbouring summit of Mytkias.

The second route we took was Boteli, the hardest one on our plan, graded up to 7 - in two of the five pitches. The route left on Stefani's EF consisted of pure slab climbing. The entire route was bolted and safe. We were feeling great, and we climbed it without any big problems, although there were run-outs of bolts at the hard details of the route, making the moves very scary. Boteli took us two and a half hours to complete, giving us another great experience in the mountains. On the descent from Stefani, we realised that we did not have time for the third route of our plan, Ahladi, another classical route on the face, and we decided not to climb it. Instead, we climbed the highest mountain summit in Greece, Mytikas, which had 2919 masl. This mountain is where I always want to go back and discover my possibilities and build other great adventures.

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Ortler, Italy